Earlier this winter I had the the good fortune to go adventure and fly fish around the Neuquen province of Argentina with my good friend Curtis. The idea of a trip to South America to fish for trout has appealed to me for a long time. So when the idea became reality about a month before departure date I was over the moon and a little behind the eight ball. When you decide to go fish and adventure around another continent some preparation is required.
The day Curtis informed me that our tickets were purchased I sprinted to my computer and fired up the Google machine. After a few basic questions were answered by God, I mean Google I came to find that there is very little information about fishing in Argentina. Searches regarding the type of flies to bring, size of fish, basic river information, where to stay etc. often led to an Outfitters or Lodge websites, none of which were very helpful. So here are some answers that helped me slay trout in the Neuquen province of Argentina.
WHERE THE HECK?
Ok, so Curtis and I basically followed the recommendation of Uncle Jimmy and decided to focus our efforts in the Nuequen Province of western Argentina . More specifically we spent a majority of our time in San Martin and Junin de los Andes, but I will blather on about them later.
TRAVEL
Travel in and around Argentina is just about as easy as traveling around any North American city. There are cabs, buses, planes and trains and all of them are fairly easy to utilize except that almost every thing you do is in Spanish.I recommend learning some basic Spanish, it helps.
AIR
So air travel is fairly basic, I flew from Canada and it took forever!
Luckily I was pretty excited and drank a lot of beer on the plane and then it didn't seem so bad. Once in Buenos Aires you can fly domestically to either San Martin de los Andes or Bariloche or where ever it is you want to go. Plan on spending at least one night in Buenos Aires as these domestic flights don't happen everyday, and plan on spending around three hundred U.S for the domestic flight. However, if you would rather spend your money on eating good food, drinking cheap booze and fishing then you take the bus.
BUS
Its a fact that Argentina is a huge country and if your not going to fly you will most likely take the bus from BA to the fishing grounds. It takes 18 or more hours. Enjoy.
Luckily there is such a thing as first class buses in Argentina and they make 18 hours bearable. Meals, snacks, movies, booze and full reclining bed seats!!!
Best buses ever!
Via Bariloche buses make Grey Hound buses look like the yellow beaters we used ride to school.
A couple of things you may want to bring on the bus:
- Water
- More booze
- Snack's, Curtis seems to think stinky Italian meats and cheese are best.
Lets face it though folks, buses aren't amazing and there is only so much lipstick one can put on to make their lips pretty. Given my druthers I would much rather fly, its quick and kinda scary.
CAR RENTAL
Renting a car in Argentina is about the same as it is here in North America, you pick a car, sign some papers and they give you the keys! Sometimes they speak English and sometimes they don't but once money has exchanged hands understanding one another becomes quite easy.
We rented a Chevy Cobalt hatch back, it was silver, fuel efficient and had an auxiliary input jack and it withstood a massive shit kicking for two weeks! The best part is that it was roughly $30.00 a day!!! More money for fishing, booze and food.
NOTE
Doing business in Argentina is a bit like trying to follow the rules as they are being made, there are official rules, cultural rules, and then personal rules. Which rules you follow greatly depends on who you are talking to. Don't forget that Argentinians really enjoy their siestas, so don't plan on getting much done from 1pm through till 4:30 or 5:00pm. Most importantly though, cash is king when paying for a long over due rental car.
OH MAN WHAT ROD SHOULD I BRING?
I chose to fish 4, 5 and 6 weight rods for this trip and I wasn't wanting for a different setup, an argument could be made for a 7 or 8 weight if you planned to streamer fish A LOT.
NOTE
Yes its windy in Argentina. Don't fret though, I can't cast for shit and I still caught fish on windy days.
If there is one thing that worried me more than anything while prepping for this trip, it was FLIES!
If you are having a similar experience I'm here to tell you that you can relax because you probably have most of what you need.
My fly boxes are nothing to get excited about and I found that there were very few times where I felt like I couldn't reasonably match a hatch. If you really feel like you are short on flies don't worry the fly shops in Argentina will be happy to take your money.
Brings markers.
Don't forget to bring warm layers, rain gear and all your usual gack!
God I sound like your mom....
No matter where and when you decide to fish in Argentina remember that its a lot like North America in that you will most likely be fishing near the mountains. Hanging out near the mountains usually means that the weather can be unpredictable, act accordingly.
If you plan on bringing your lap top so you can keep up with Facebook then I recommend bringing a plug converter and a voltage converter. Otherwise, you will be in a dusty little town trying to explain to a very confused looking person behind the counter that you wanna charge your tablet.
I found this beaut in a Junin, weight means reliability and this thing weighs 3 lbs.
TIMING IS EVERYTHING
F*ck! I really dislike it when you are sitting by the river at the end of a tough day of fishing and some loser guide looks at ya and says "you should have been here last week!". Get bent f*cker!
If I was you I wouldn't head south for less than two weeks, I went for a month at the begining of the Argentine season and I felt pressed for time. So go for a long time, that way you will find at least one day of awesome fishing.
Watch local ski reports and keep track of the snow pack and weather trends, this will help you decide on the timing of your trip. Curtis and I had some local info before we decide to go, as it turns out Argentina had a extremely low snow pack and that lead to low spring water levels. A little research will go along way when deciding when to head south.
SAN MARTIN & JUNIN
So there are three towns in the Nuequen province that are conducive to fishing, Bariloche, San Martin de los Andes and Junin de los Andes and the latter two are the goods as far as access to good fishing. So for our purposes we can forget about Bariloche and focus on San Martin and Junin.
NOTE
Bariloche is quite near to the Limay, and the Limay looks juicy.
San Martin is....
San Martin is not unlike where I live. There is good skiing, good food, good people and good fishing. There are quite a few restaurant, no bars, there are grocery stores and delis and there are several fly shops. Its a bustling little town nestled in the mountains near a lake and there are rose bushes lining some of the streets. If you go check out Pizza Cala, The Ku, and the little deli across the square, all are stellar. That is all I really have to say about San Martin.
Junin is the little dust bowl that I fell in love with.
Junin is the real hub for fly fishing in the area. The Chimehuin runs right through town, the Malleo is 40 minutes away the Collon Cura is 50 minutes away, well you get the picture. Junin definitely doesn't have the swagger of Bariloche or San Martin but I like to think of it as "understated awesome".
There are bars restaurants and empanada stands, there are fishing stores and one real dedicated fly shop and there are fish! There are a ton of options for accommodation, you can spend as much or as little as you like. I stayed at the Rio Dorado Lodge and the Chimehuin Inn and there were both just fine...
While your at the grocery store down near the plaza don't forget get some sort of condiment for your Minutas sandwich, I find there a little dry.
Oh I just about forgot!
Go out and buy Fly Fishing In Patagonia; A Trout Bums Guide to Argentina written by Barrett Mattison & Evan Jones. Go and get it right now!
Thanks for looking !
Press Play